Growing Up in Working Class Youngstown — Spinning Bowl Salads

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20th-cent

2oth Century Restaurant, photo courtesy of Morris Levy, used with permission.

One of my favorite college memories was a small group of friends that would gather for dinner at the end of each quarter at Youngstown State. We would meet up at the 20th Century Restaurant, with its art deco architecture, and usually several of us would end up sharing one of their legendary Spinning Bowl Salads. The 20th Century was located on Belmont Ave, at the “Belmont Point” where Belmont and Wirt Street merged.

The Spinning Bowl Salad was a trademark of the 20th Century Restaurant from its beginnings in 1941. The restaurant was opened by Harry and Faye Malkoff, who ran several other restaurants in the area including one of our favorites, the Golden Drumstick, located on the South side. Faye Malkoff was apparently a culinary genius. In Classic Restaurants of Youngstown, her son says that she based the recipe on one used at Lawry’s Steakhouse in Los Angeles, adding her own unique touches (p. 112). I’m inclined to believe this version of the history, although there is an alternate claiming it was picked up from the Blackhawk Steak House in Chicago. A Baltimore Sun article from May 10, 2000 makes this connection and provides a recipe that sounds like the salad I remember.

The big deal with the Spinning Bowl Salad was that it was made at your table, the bowl literally being spun as the salad was tossed and the special blue cheese-based and crumbled egg dressing was added. It was a show as well as a feast–we’d often share one, along with other entrees.

The restaurant had a diverse menu and it was all good–everything from steaks and spare ribs to deli sandwiches and pasta. Living on a college student budget a plate of spaghetti, a share of a Spinning Bowl and one of their famous chocolate creme pies or New York Cheesecakes would leave you pretty satisfied.

By the time I started going there to eat in the early ’70s, ownership had passed to Joseph and Morris Levy, along with brothers Marvin and Jacob Newman (Classic Restaurants, p. 112). I regret that I never visited during the heyday of the Malkoff’s ownership, but it sounds like the Levy’s kept the wait staff who had worked for the Malkoff’s along with a chef trained by Faye. I spoke to Morris Levy who gave me permission to use the picture in this article. I joked with him that as sometimes boisterous college students he probably had to shush us. He said most likely he would have joined in with the fun. At any rate, we always found the 20th Century a great place for good food and celebration.

During this time, much of the business growth on the North side had moved north of Gypsy Lane into Liberty Township. The area of Belmont on which the restaurant was located began to decline and customers felt increasingly unsafe visiting the restaurant. Ultimately, it was closed in the late 1980’s and is no more.

Still, as restaurants go, a forty-five year plus run is pretty amazing when so many start ups last only a few years. It was a great place for first dates, anniversaries, celebrations, or a place for a good lunch if you worked downtown or on the North side. It combined a unique atmosphere with great, distinctive menu items. And for most of us, what we will remember most is those awesome Spinning Bowl Salads.

I hope you will add your memories of the 20th Century to this post.

[After sending a copy of this post to Morris Levy, he sent me this recipe for the Spinning Bowl Salad.]

           SPINNING BOWL SALAD

Dressing: 50% Miracle Whip,  50% KRAFT Zesty Italian. Whip until smooth.

Croutons: Use day old white sandwich bread cut into
squares.  Bake lightly on both sides,  sprinkle with powdered garlic/
liquid butter mix, then  bake somemore.

Hard boiled egg: grated. Crumbled blue cheese

Head lettuce chopped coarsely, optional a tad of escarole

Enjoy,  Morris ‘Blondie’ Levy

[Want to read more of “Growing Up in Working Class Youngstown?” Click “On Youngstown” here or on the menu to see over a hundred other posts!]

 

 

41 thoughts on “Growing Up in Working Class Youngstown — Spinning Bowl Salads”

    • I worked at The Golden Drumstick as a waitress in the late 1960s. All pies and desserts were made in house. The chocolate pecan pie was to “die for”! I remember the filling was made with lard! The baker was a petite African-American lady nicknamed “Lil’ Bit” and the main fry cook was Kitty. Mrs. Ann Rushwin was over the kitchen. I lost contact with my cook and waitress friends fifty years ago. The restaurant was owned by Malkoff when I started, was sold, and quickly deteriorated under the new owners.

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  3. Very interesting piece. I vaguely remember that restaurant. I know I never went there to eat. My loss I am sure.Salad sounds good. I will try the salad dressing. Love Bleu cheese
    Candy

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  5. I loved the basket of rolls that were served with the spinning bowl. There were salted rolls and small sticky buns. I still have the hips to prove how much I liked them!

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  6. My neighbor, Hazel Nuce was the hostess at the 20th Century for a very long time. She used to bring us special treats quite often. She gave the recipe for the French Chocolate Cream Pie to my mom and I know I have it somewhere. If I can find it I will let you know.

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  7. Pingback: Growing Up in Working Class Youngstown — Top Ten of 2016 | Bob on Books

  8. Wow does this bring back a great culinary memory…..so many Ytown traditions that I adore ! I will recreate it for my friends here in New England ! Keep them coming Bob, it’s truly appreciated.

    PS How about Isaly Dairy’ Chipped Chopped Ham and BBQ sauce sandwiches ? No such ” lunchmeat ” anywhere here in Boston ! Unhealthy as it may be it’s a tasty one.

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  9. As a teenager I worked as a busboy at the restaurant. I particularly remember rushing up to work after YoCo football games at Rayen HS Football stadium. Win or lose, the place was full and the crowd was lively. I made more with my share of tips on those evenings than working a full dinner meal.

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  10. I occasionally ate lunch there in 73 when I worked at Howard Wilson Pontiac. I remember the rolls! My favorite was the cheesecake. If anyone has the recipe or knows where to find it, I would be thrilled to have it. I’ve been searching for years.

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  11. My aunt gave me a wedding shower at 20th Century in 1972. We all had the Spinning Bowl Salad, rolls and the chocolate pie! What a fun memory!
    Judy Herskovitz Silbermann

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  13. Had our wedding breakfast there in 1957! (Think restaurant was on Belmont & Griffith or Covington, not Wirt. I lived on Wirt and Moo Shop was on that corner). By the way, look forward to reading your Youngstown accounts, it brings back great memories.

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  15. What a great restaurant! Often mentioned. I had the great pleasure of working next door to LaRue in Niles, where she worked at the Jewelery Connection and I Had my Pizza and Sub Shop.
    Michael DiCello

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  18. Mr Malkoff was the owner when my mother worked there. He was a wonderful jewish man. Not sure if I spelled his name correctly.

    He treated his employees with respect and didn’t steal their tips like they now do.

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  19. I used to head to the 20th Century with fellow students and Director Billl Hulsopple from YSU’s Spotlight Theatre in the mid-1970s. Loved the spinning bowl salad

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  21. Pingback: Growing Up in Working Class Youngstown — Seven Years of Food Posts | Bob on Books

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