Growing Up in Working Class Youngstown — Pierogies

By Silar (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0) or GFDL (http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html)], via Wikimedia Commons

By Silar (Own work) [CC BY-SA 3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0) or GFDL (http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html)], via Wikimedia Commons

I was eating dinner with some grad students last night at Sloopy’s Diner in the Ohio Union at Ohio State when one of the dishes ordered brought back memories. Pierogies. Considering that it is Lent and there are so many students from Youngstown and northeast Ohio at Ohio State, I shouldn’t have been surprised.

It’s actually a funny thing about pierogies with my wife and me. I didn’t grow up in an eastern European or Catholic home and so we never had pierogies. I would hear about all the churches in the area who had pierogie sales but it wasn’t a dish we had in our house. (I wonder if my mom didn’t like them.) On the other hand, my wife grew up with pierogies as a regular dish on Fridays, especially during Lent. She described to me how she and her mother would spend a good part of a day making pierogies. Her mom also helped on occasion making pierogies when her church had sales.

Pierogies are a kind of dumpling that originated in eastern Europe made with an unleavened dough that is rolled out. My wife tells me that they used a water glass to cut out the pierogi dough. Theirs was usually a relatively simple recipe, with boiled and mashed potatoes for filling. The dough was folded over and the edges wetted and pressed together. Then the pierogies were first boiled and then fried in butter or oil. While some recipes use other ingredients for fillings including cheeses, meat (not during Lent), sauerkraut, or fruit and could be topped with fried onions or other toppings, they kept it simple. In her family at least, this was a form of fasting and usually a meal was simply of pierogies and boiled cabbage. It was hearty and filling without being extravagant.

The other oddity of our story is, having discovered pierogies only as an adult, I like them. On the other hand, my wife would say that at best, she tolerates them. Needless to say, if I get pierogies, it is not at home! But, as they say, opposites attract, and it must work since we are going on 37 years of marriage.

Recipes of Youngstown 2Here is a recipe from Wikipedia for pierogies that covers the basics. There are a couple of recipes for pierogies in Recipes of Youngstown found on pages 63 and 170. I’ve also learned that there is a second Recipes of Youngstown coming out soon, the proceeds from which will benefit the Mahoning Valley Historical Society. I’ve pre-ordered mine and you can order yours through the Mahoning Valley Historical Society website, which also has instructions for ordering by mail or phone. I wouldn’t at all be surprised if there are additional pierogi recipes along with lots of other great Youngstown dishes!

Pierogies are a hearty and sustaining food made from simple and readily available ingredients. Working class families on a budget could make them for a meal and freeze them for another time. They are work intensive as are many good foods and assumed there was someone in the home who could devote the time to that work. I suspect there is probably a special reward in heaven for all those women who made pierogies for those countless church sales! And maybe they finally get someone else to make dinner.

Read all the posts in the Growing Up in Youngstown Series by clicking the “On Youngstown” category link either at the top of this page or in the left column of my home page.

Growing Up in Working Class Youngstown — Christmas Baking

20151205_153425This weekend we are re-enacting an annual family tradition that has its roots in growing up in Youngstown–pizzelle making. Our son and his wife will join us tomorrow afternoon to make 14 to 16 dozen of these wonderful Italian cookies made two at a time on what appears to be a waffle iron (the same one we received from my mother-in-law the first year we were married).

We usually put some Christmas music on to inspire us and have on hand a pot of coffee and other beverages to fortify us. I usually mix up the ingredients and the batter so it is ready when they arrive. My daughter-in-law is great at making perfectly sized dough-balls and positioning them just so (the appearance of our pizzelles have greatly improved since she became part of the family!). Since this process takes several hours, we tag team and give each other breaks. What is amazing is that after doing this for more than a half a dozen years, there is still family harmony! We split the results between us, which usually end up as gifts to family and neighbors or get added to the party buffet at Christmas parties.

What we’ve found is that often when we mention pizzelles to friends who are not from Youngstown, we get quizzical looks. Sometimes they will say, “Oh, those “spider” cookies” because of the web-like design on them. But almost everyone loves them, except for those who don’t like the taste of anise, which is one of the ingredients in our family recipe.  In preparing to write this post, I asked my wife, from whose family our recipe came, about whether I could share it. Let’s just say that she prefers to keep it our family’s “secret recipe” for right now. I will share that one key for us is using margarine rather than butter which avoids a “burnt” taste because of butter burning more easily (we found this out when we substituted butter one year).

Christmas baking was a big thing growing up in Youngstown. Ours is a pretty modest affair but often, families would spend weeks before the holiday doing all kinds of baking — pizzelles, kolachies of different types, bow tie cookies, snowballs, all sorts of sugar cookies, some iced (we sometimes make a candy cane sugar cookie), springerle, thumbprints and those peanut-butter cookies with Hershey’s kisses, and so many more!

Recipes of Youngstown

Recipes of Youngstown

Youngstown back then was a city with many extended families all living in the same town, often in the same part of town. Christmas celebrations often moved from house to house during the holidays. A spread of cookies was always essential!

At this point, I want to give a shout-out for Recipes of Youngstown that has all sorts of cookie recipes including a number of different pizzelle recipes. The cookbook is chock full of recipes for all your favorite Youngstown foods and the proceeds go to the Lanterman Mill Restoration Fund. We not only have our own copy but have bought several as gifts for fellow Youngstowners who have absolutely loved it!

What were some of the cookies and other pastries that were part of Christmas celebrations growing up? What are your memories of baking for the holidays?