2oth Century Restaurant, photo courtesy of Morris Levy, used with permission.
One of my favorite college memories was a small group of friends that would gather for dinner at the end of each quarter at Youngstown State. We would meet up at the 20th Century Restaurant, with its art deco architecture, and usually several of us would end up sharing one of their legendary Spinning Bowl Salads. The 20th Century was located on Belmont Ave, at the “Belmont Point” where Belmont and Wirt Street merged.
The Spinning Bowl Salad was a trademark of the 20th Century Restaurant from its beginnings in 1941. The restaurant was opened by Harry and Faye Malkoff, who ran several other restaurants in the area including one of our favorites, the Golden Drumstick, located on the South side. Faye Malkoff was apparently a culinary genius. In Classic Restaurants of Youngstown, her son says that she based the recipe on one used at Lawry’s Steakhouse in Los Angeles, adding her own unique touches (p. 112). I’m inclined to believe this version of the history, although there is an alternate claiming it was picked up from the Blackhawk Steak House in Chicago. A Baltimore Sun article from May 10, 2000 makes this connection and provides a recipe that sounds like the salad I remember.
The big deal with the Spinning Bowl Salad was that it was made at your table, the bowl literally being spun as the salad was tossed and the special blue cheese-based and crumbled egg dressing was added. It was a show as well as a feast–we’d often share one, along with other entrees.
The restaurant had a diverse menu and it was all good–everything from steaks and spare ribs to deli sandwiches and pasta. Living on a college student budget a plate of spaghetti, a share of a Spinning Bowl and one of their famous chocolate creme pies or New York Cheesecakes would leave you pretty satisfied.
By the time I started going there to eat in the early ’70s, ownership had passed to Joseph and Morris Levy, along with brothers Marvin and Jacob Newman (Classic Restaurants, p. 112). I regret that I never visited during the heyday of the Malkoff’s ownership, but it sounds like the Levy’s kept the wait staff who had worked for the Malkoff’s along with a chef trained by Faye. I spoke to Morris Levy who gave me permission to use the picture in this article. I joked with him that as sometimes boisterous college students he probably had to shush us. He said most likely he would have joined in with the fun. At any rate, we always found the 20th Century a great place for good food and celebration.
During this time, much of the business growth on the North side had moved north of Gypsy Lane into Liberty Township. The area of Belmont on which the restaurant was located began to decline and customers felt increasingly unsafe visiting the restaurant. Ultimately, it was closed in the late 1980’s and is no more.
Still, as restaurants go, a forty-five year plus run is pretty amazing when so many start ups last only a few years. It was a great place for first dates, anniversaries, celebrations, or a place for a good lunch if you worked downtown or on the North side. It combined a unique atmosphere with great, distinctive menu items. And for most of us, what we will remember most is those awesome Spinning Bowl Salads.
I hope you will add your memories of the 20th Century to this post.
[After sending a copy of this post to Morris Levy, he sent me this recipe for the Spinning Bowl Salad.]
SPINNING BOWL SALAD
Dressing: 50% Miracle Whip, 50% KRAFT Zesty Italian. Whip until smooth.
Croutons: Use day old white sandwich bread cut into
squares. Bake lightly on both sides, sprinkle with powdered garlic/
liquid butter mix, then bake somemore.
Hard boiled egg: grated. Crumbled blue cheese
Head lettuce chopped coarsely, optional a tad of escarole
Enjoy, Morris ‘Blondie’ Levy
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Looking for the original recipe for the chocolate cream pecan. Does anyone remember this pie or where the recipe may be?
It would be a treasure to come across that. I’d bet “Recipes of the 20th Century” would be a local best-seller!
I worked at The Golden Drumstick as a waitress in the late 1960s. All pies and desserts were made in house. The chocolate pecan pie was to “die for”! I remember the filling was made with lard! The baker was a petite African-American lady nicknamed “Lil’ Bit” and the main fry cook was Kitty. Mrs. Ann Rushwin was over the kitchen. I lost contact with my cook and waitress friends fifty years ago. The restaurant was owned by Malkoff when I started, was sold, and quickly deteriorated under the new owners.
Did I Work with you?
I like this whole theme!!Sam RestuccioCardinal Mooney 1969!!!
Very interesting piece. I vaguely remember that restaurant. I know I never went there to eat. My loss I am sure.Salad sounds good. I will try the salad dressing. Love Bleu cheese
Candy
Loved eating there–especially the spinning bowl salad.
Thanks for a good Y-town memory
Michelle
I loved the basket of rolls that were served with the spinning bowl. There were salted rolls and small sticky buns. I still have the hips to prove how much I liked them!
Can’t believe how many comments I’ve received about those rolls!
My neighbor, Hazel Nuce was the hostess at the 20th Century for a very long time. She used to bring us special treats quite often. She gave the recipe for the French Chocolate Cream Pie to my mom and I know I have it somewhere. If I can find it I will let you know.
That could be worth a post of its own! No chance that you have a recipe for their rolls?
Did you ever get the rolls recipe?
Hadn’t thought of it until you mentioned it!
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Wow does this bring back a great culinary memory…..so many Ytown traditions that I adore ! I will recreate it for my friends here in New England ! Keep them coming Bob, it’s truly appreciated.
PS How about Isaly Dairy’ Chipped Chopped Ham and BBQ sauce sandwiches ? No such ” lunchmeat ” anywhere here in Boston ! Unhealthy as it may be it’s a tasty one.
Thanks, mean a great deal coming from a Chaney classmate!
thaks
As a teenager I worked as a busboy at the restaurant. I particularly remember rushing up to work after YoCo football games at Rayen HS Football stadium. Win or lose, the place was full and the crowd was lively. I made more with my share of tips on those evenings than working a full dinner meal.
Thanks for sharing your memories!
I occasionally ate lunch there in 73 when I worked at Howard Wilson Pontiac. I remember the rolls! My favorite was the cheesecake. If anyone has the recipe or knows where to find it, I would be thrilled to have it. I’ve been searching for years.
My aunt gave me a wedding shower at 20th Century in 1972. We all had the Spinning Bowl Salad, rolls and the chocolate pie! What a fun memory!
Judy Herskovitz Silbermann
I remember Judy Herskovitz . Blondie Levy
I remember you too, Blondie.
Had our wedding breakfast there in 1957! (Think restaurant was on Belmont & Griffith or Covington, not Wirt. I lived on Wirt and Moo Shop was on that corner). By the way, look forward to reading your Youngstown accounts, it brings back great memories.
Glad you enjoy them. I enjoy writing them.
My sister worked at the moo shop.
Reading your articles are like a large plate of comfort food.
I’m glad you enjoy them. We Youngstowners do like our comfort food!
What a great restaurant! Often mentioned. I had the great pleasure of working next door to LaRue in Niles, where she worked at the Jewelery Connection and I Had my Pizza and Sub Shop.
Michael DiCello
My mother worked there as a waitress from its opening for over 20 years. Her name was Lucy.
the motto at 20th century was “food for thought.
Fits with its location near YSU!
Mr Malkoff was the owner when my mother worked there. He was a wonderful jewish man. Not sure if I spelled his name correctly.
He treated his employees with respect and didn’t steal their tips like they now do.
I’ve heard so much good about them. And I think you got the spelling right.
Malkoff was spelled LEVY
You and your family also did a great job running the restaurant!
TY
I used to head to the 20th Century with fellow students and Director Billl Hulsopple from YSU’s Spotlight Theatre in the mid-1970s. Loved the spinning bowl salad
You and so many of us!
Their in house bakery also made the best cinnamon rolls, German chocolate cake besides cheesecake.
It was an amazing place.
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I worked at Golden Drumstick right when it sold. I don’t remember the salad but I remember the chocolate pie. Plus the old night cook was mean as hell. She only wanted you to serve chicken. Mr Jacob wanted you to serve the chicken if you dropped it. I came through the door he was looking through it almost broke his nose. I worked nights when hubby was in Army.
Did I Work with you?
I miss the ‘century’s sweet rolls! Mmmmmmm
Before moving to North Carolina, I use to frequent the restaurant in the late seventies and early eighties. I loved the blue cheese house salad. One of my memorable treats was Twentieth Century’s suculant, sweet, buttered rolls. Those were the best rolls I have ever eaten. I haven’t tasted any like that since. 😊😋
You’re not the only one!
I grew up in Youngstown in the 1940s and 1950s. I had many meals at Twentieth Century, the Kravitz Deli, and Ravers Restaurant downtown. My father was an executive at Strouss’. I went to Harding School, Hayes Junior High, and graduated from Rayen. I then went to college in Cleveland! I have many memories of this period if anyone wants to share them. Michael Rosenthal. Email is springer 11@verizon.net. Phone is 301 447 3008 or 410 703 5743. I live now in Frederick County Maryland.